Chikankari has become a wardrobe staple for women now. Women who are in colleges, offices prefer to have a chikankari kurta in stock the day they decide to wear ethnic. Chikankari is no longer a craft that is limited to special occasions. But quality chikankari, especially that is purely handmade, is tough to get. Indian high-fashion labels have roped in these artisans who make bespoke chikankari outfits, which are now being sported by celebrities at their weddings. Here’s how a craft that was specially meant for royalty is now a must-have piece in the wardrobe of an Indian woman.
The heritage wear has now made its way into Bollywood weddings
Chikankari comes from Lucknow, back when it was still part of Avadh. Vogue India mentions that it was a part of the dress code of lower court royals, until colonial fashion came in. The embroidery is one of the finest there is in India, and is mostly done with white cotton thread. Despite being very simple, its intricacy is what makes chikankari so beautiful. Other color combinations have been brought in, but nothing beats the elegance and beauty of a pristine white chikankari outfit.
Celebrities have started to spotlight the craft in their wedding outfits. They are able to afford the high prices of a premium chikankari item that might take two months to create. Deepika Padukone sported a classic white chikankari saree at her reception, that made her look like royalty. Sonam Kapoor donned a white and gold chikankari lehenga at one of her wedding functions. Athiya Shetty upped the ante in a pure white chikankari suit for her sangeet. While usually neglected by us commoners too in weddings, anything chikankari is a unique and unconventional choice for special occasions.
Chikankari kurtis are everywhere, but the production scale is putting the art form at risk
Chikankari is also the college-girl staple outfit in India. It has seen a resurgence as everyday clothing with the sudden onslaught of machine-made georgette chikankari kurtis. Every young girl has one of these in some or the other color. The quality of embroidery is below par, and is not as intricate as chikankari should be, yet these pieces are one of the most sought-after in markets.
These outfits are extremely versatile and comfortable, and can be styled in multiple ways. A pair of jeans and a chikankari kurti have become the usual combination for women styling the item. Cotton chikankari works are a great option for women who want easy-going fashion. They are extremely breathable and easy to maintain, making chikankari outfits great to invest in.
Authentic Chikankari artists, however, are facing a great threat because of machine work. These artisans, who are mostly women, were earning a meager ₹3000 monthly salary in 2022. The demand for chikankari continues to exist, but no one is willing to pay the amount that a handmade chikankari outfit entails. Some revivalists are taking the initiative to honor their work duly. Actors Richa Chaddha and Ali Fazal have launched Ehaab Couture, a brand that specializes in quality chikankari.
Chikankari is an art form that needs a kind of ownership that understands its worth and the efforts behind it. Readymade garment manufacturers who are producing these clothes on a large scale are taking away the art from it, and are focused on deriving profits by simply satisfying a mass demand. We as consumers of such clothes need to understand the cultural significance of chikankari, and the value we hold in our wardrobe in the form of such clothes.
